Rugby Travel guide to Marseille
The city that gave us Eric Cantona has plenty of flair and attitude of its own, with a thriving food scene fuelled with a diverse cuisine, the sparkling Med on its doorstep and rolling vineyards in the backyard. This is what every visiting fan needs to know.
What’s Marseille like?
Taking a prime spot on the Gulf of Lion, Marseille is a city of culture – vibrant neighbourhoods are dotted with colourful murals, a Byzantine basilica towers over rocky hills, and cobbled streets all lead back to the Vieux Port, lined with a jumble of lavish yachts and fishing boats. The food is anything you want it to be, but always authentic, either from the North African and Middle Eastern influence, or the simple fact it has the best of French produce – surf of the Mediterranean, turf of the Provence – as a larder.
What are Marseille’s claims to fame?
A major trading port for the ancient Greeks and Romans, Marseille was founded in 600 BC, which makes it one of the oldest cities in Europe. It’s also responsible for 38 per cent of the world’s rosé production, as well as being the birthplace of French classics like bouillabaisse and ratatouille. Perhaps more significant to some, is the sporting sons, including Eric Cantona, Jean Pierre-Papin [who formed part of the formidable Marseille strikeforce with Chris Waddle circa 1990], and Zinedine Zidane. Jonah Lomu also played his last game of professional rugby here, aged 34, as a number eight for what was then the city’s Marseilles-Vitrolles team.
How do I get to Marseille?
Flights from the UK to Marseille take around two-hours – Ryanair flies direct from London Stansted, East Midlands Airport, Nottingham and Edinburgh to Marseille Provence Airport, a half-hour drive from the city centre. Alternatively, catch the Eurostar to Paris or Lille and change over onto the regional service to Marseille-St-Charles station.
Do they play rugby in Marseille?
As with all French cities, there are rugby teams, but the most famous moment came when Jonah Lomu joined Marseille-Vitrolles, where he played his last professional game of rugby, turning out, aged 34, at No.8, bringing in a crowd of 2,500 and more than 100 media in the process. Today the side doesn’t exist, but in its place is Stade Phoceen, who play in the regional championship beneath the national league system.
How do I get to Stade Vélodrome?
It’s an 11-minute metro journey to the stadium from Marseille-St-Charles station or, if you plan on a pre-match pint in the city centre, it’s a 15-minute walk and 15 minutes by bus. Taxi stations are dotted around Marseille, too, with rides available 24/7 – though it’s best to book in advance.
What’s the Stade Vélodrome like?
At 67,397 seats, the Vélodrome is the second biggest stadium in the country. It’s been host to rugby, football, boxing and cycling legends since 1937. It’s hosted two FIFA World Cups, two European Championships, three Rugby League World Cups, and was where England made it through to the 2007 Rugby World Cup semi-finals, when they defeated Australia. It also held the Champions Cup final when La Rochelle shocked Leinster 24-21.
Where do you drink before a match at Stade Vélodrome?
Arrive at the Stade Vélodrome an hour before kick-off and check out one of the four bars on its doorstep - old world touches and a roomy terrace await at Pub Black Stone, great burgers at spacious gastropub Brasserie du Stade. Down at the Vieux Port, craft beer connoisseurs should stop by Beer District and jazz fans by La Caravelle for a glass of rosé to a live soundtrack.
What do I have to see in Marseille?
Starting at the buzzing cafés and seafood stalls surrounding the Vieux Port, wander up to the steep alleyways of Le Panier – Marseille’s oldest quarter – take a stroll around the gardens of the Palais Longchamp and climb up to the Notre-Dame de la Garde for panoramic views of the Bay.
What can I do between games in Marseille?
For a taste of the Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur wine country, embark on a vineyard tour spanning Marseille, Cassis, Bandol and La Ciotat - tastings included, of course. On your return, lace up your hiking boots and explore nearby coves, take to the water for kayaking and canyoning excursions or catch the ferry to the nearby Frioul archipelago for snorkelling in crystal-clear waters.
Notre-Dame de la Garde
What’s the food like in Marseille?
It’s an eclectic medley of tradition and innovation, Michelin-starred kitchens interlaced with creative street food stalls. Fresh seafood, truffles and olive oil take the fore in classic French dishes, but you’ll find international influences around every corner: Middle Eastern flatbreads, North African pastries and some of the best pizza this side of Naples. Read Rugby Journal’s full guide to food in Marseille and Provence here.
What are the best places to eat in Marseille?
Every morning, local chefs will make a beeline for the seafood market on the Vieux Port, browsing for the perfect red mullet, bream and monkfish to feature in their bouillabaisse - sample some of the best at triple-Michelin-starred Le Petit Nice-Passedat. For dinner, opt for a slice at pizzeria Chez Sauveur or join residents at Café de l’Abbaye for chickpea fritters, pastis and stunning sunsets, a scoop of ‘black vanilla’ ice cream at Vanille Noire to follow. Read Rugby Journal’s full guide to food in Marseille and Provence here.
What are the best places to stay in Marseille?
Book a holiday cottage like six-person Gîte Aubert, where beamed ceilings create a home-from-home atmosphere (from £103 per night), an elegant urban pad for two like Gîte Panier (from £368 per week) or take the luxury up a notch and enjoy views from floor-to-ceiling windows and an award-winning breakfast at the Sofitel Marseille Vieux Port (doubles from £219). Prefer to stay close to the games? Hotel Mercure (doubles from £113) is a stone’s throw from the Stade Vélodrome.
Le Petit Nice-Passedat
What is close to Marseille?
Not just close, but part of Marseille are the spectacular Calanques – pine-topped limestone inlets, white sand beaches and azure waters stretch for a whopping 20km. For your culture fix, head to Aix-en-Provence, birthplace of painter Paul Cézanne or explore the imposing Papal Palace in Avignon – also home to Teimana Harrison, see below. Both cities are accessible by train from Marseille.
Triple-Michelin-starred Le Petit Nice-Passedat
How do I find out more about Marseille?
For more information on Marseille, visit marseille-tourisme.com