Rugby Travel guide to Suva

21 Feb

Written By Eleanor Bradley

Tucked on the south-east coast of Fiji’s largest island, the vibrant capital of Suva may be famed for its stunning harbour front, colourful streets and lively markets, but for rugby fans it is the beating heart of everyone’s second favourite international rugby team. This is why Suva is a must-visit destination for every fan.

What’s Suva like?
Found in the south-eastern corner of Viti Levu, with the royal blue Pacific waters lapping at its feet, Suva is the political, economic and cultural hub of Fiji. While soft-sand beaches may be Fiji’s most striking attraction, there is beauty to be found in the city too, with its colonial-era architecture, tropical gardens and shaded promenades.

“I would say Fiji is a beautiful place,” says Flying Fijians captain Waisea Nayacalevu. “Tropical weather, beautiful white sandy beaches, and the people are nice as well. And you feel the energy when you arrive in Fiji. They welcome you with song at the airport and, I would say, it’s a peaceful place to go and explore and experience.”

What are Suva’s claims to fame?
Following a short period as an independent kingdom in 1871, Fiji was established as a British colony three years later. Nearly a century of British rule ended when Fiji gained its independence in 1970. The city features historic religious buildings like the Sacred Heart Cathedral and Suva Fiji temple, and has produced some of the finest Flying Fijians, chief among them being the legendary Waisale Serevi.

How do I get to Suva?
Flights from Auckland, Sydney, and Brisbane to Nadi International Airport take around three hours and are widely available year-round. From there, it’s either a 30-minute connecting domestic flight or a scenic three-hour drive to Suva.

How do I get to HFC Bank Stadium?
HFC Bank Stadium is just a 15-minute drive from Suva's city centre, or a quick 30-minute taxi ride from Nausori Airport. Bus routes 7 and 8 connect the city centre to the stadium, which is a 45-minute walk for those who are able.

Do they play rugby in Suva?
Yes, Suva is home to Suva Rugby Union, one of the most successful and historic teams in Fiji, consistently competing in the Fiji Rugby Union competitions like the Skipper Cup, an eight-team domestic competition in which they finished runners up in 2024. The HFC Bank Stadium also hosts matches for the national team, the Flying Fijians, who are widely recognized as one of the most exciting international rugby teams due to their famous flair on the field, as well as the Fijian Drua, who compete in Super Rugby.

What’s HFC Bank Stadium like?
Opened in 2017, the 15,000 capacity HFC Bank Stadium is a modern ground, featuring a synthetic pitch and grandstands. The stadium is equipped with all the suitable amenities, including food and drink outlets and a fan zone for major events. It’s the home ground for Fiji’s national football team as well as the Flying Fijians, and has hosted Pacific Nations Cup rugby matches, FIFA World Cup qualifiers, and national athletics competitions.

Where do you drink before a match at HFC Bank Stadium?
Beer on tap is available inside the stadium, but for something more laid-back head to the neighbouring ‘The Bar Belle’ for fresh seafood and cocktails. In the city centre, head to the Top Dog Bar and Grill for chilled local brews, or enjoy a more sophisticated vibe at Privé at Toorak Central, a stylish cocktail bar in a quieter part of town.

What do I have to see in Suva?
A great way to discover the charms of Suva is with a guided walking tour. In a three hour adventure led by local legend Peter Sipeli, you will be taken around 14 of Suva’s most culturally and historically important landmarks, from the chaos and colour of local markets to the cool calmness of Thurston Garden. Finally, head to the Fiji Museum, where you can explore exhibits showcasing Fiji’s indigenous history, including Fijian war canoes, tanoa (ceremonial bowls), and a collection of traditional tapa cloth.

For a glimpse of Suva’s colonial past, take a walk to see the Presidential Palace, which was once the residence of British governors before it burnt to the ground in 1921 following a lightning strike. If you’re lucky to be there on the third Saturday of each month, you might get the chance to witness the changing of guards at the gates. Don’t miss the Sacred Heart Cathedral, a beautiful example of neo-Gothic architecture and a serene space for reflection.

“Going to the surrounding islands is also a must for those staying in Suva,” says former Fiji player Graham Dewes. “You have to get out to the outer islands; my favourite place would be Taveuni. They call it the Garden Island, and it’s one of the most beautiful islands in Fiji. It’s very green, and while all of Fiji is tropical, there’s a special flower that only grows there, called tagimoucia.”

What can I do between games in Suva?
Explore the city on foot, wandering through the colourful markets of the Municipal Handicraft Centre and the bustling Suva Municipal Market, where you can sample traditional Fijian snacks. For stunning views, drive to Colo-i-Suva Forest Park, where you can enjoy peaceful walks through tropical rainforest, swim in natural pools, enjoy a bird watching tour and experience the Korolailai waterfalls. If you're into watersports, the beaches of Pacific Harbour, a 45-minute drive from Suva, offer great opportunities for kayaking, paddleboarding, and even shark diving.

For something off the main tourist track and a chance to see Fiji as it used to be, spend some time in Levuka, on the east coast of Ovalu, Fiji’s first capital from 1874 to 1883. The rugged mountains surrounding it prevented economic growth, meaning Levuka is a town frozen in time, so much so that it was given UNESCO World Heritage Status in 2013. Pair your visit with a night in a local homestay for an authentic Fijian experience.

What’s the food like in Suva?
Fiji’s cuisine is a mix of fresh seafood, tropical fruits, and indigenous ingredients, with dishes like kokoda (Fijian ceviche) and palusami (a feast of corned beef, onion, garlic, coconut cream, and Swiss chard) perfectly exhibiting the diversity of flavours on offer. Local specialties such as yaqona (kava) can be found in the food markets in Suva. Indian-influenced dishes, such as spicy curries and roti, are also popular, highlighting Suva’s rich cultural heritage.

What is close to Suva?
Just a 45-minute boat ride from Pacific Harbour is the beautiful island of Beqa, famous for its coral reefs and diverse underwater life, which is a paradise for divers and snorkelers. East of Suva are the luxury resorts on Wakaya Island and Rewa river, which winds north of Suva, offers excellent opportunities for a straightforward kayaking expedition.

How do I find out more about Suva?
For more information on Nadi, visit https://www.fiji.travel