Rugby Travel guide to Lille

Lille in northern France is not known as a rugby hotspot. In fact, until undergoing a regeneration in the 1980s, it wasn’t known as a hotspot for anything. Its turnaround, however, has made it the day-tripping destination of choice in northern France, with a new international audience waiting to discover its surprising cultural and culinary delights. Here is a heads up on what to expect.

What’s Lille like?
Lille is a proud French city but it looks and feels more Flemish than French. It’s even jokingly referred to by the locals as the ‘Capital of Flanders’. So it’s a mix, and culturally richer for it. In Lille, you’ll move seamlessly from cobbled, narrow streets boasting traditional Flemish brasseries, or Estaminet; into wider, French squares and boulevards filled with busying locals going about their day in this ambitious and charming city.

What are Lille’s claims to fame?
Lille’s claim to fame is its popularity. Throughout its history, it’s been a sought after trading and commercial site for numerous different kingdoms: the Holy Roman Empire, the Burgundian State, the Spanish Netherlands and, of course, the Kingdom of France.

Need a more bitesize claim to fame? The French war hero, Charles de Gaulle, who later became the President of France, was born in Lille in 1890. De Gaulle established a French government in exile during World War II, quickly becoming it’s undisputed leader, while in peacetime his strong presidency helped found France’s Fifth Republic.

How do I get there?
For British rugby fans travelling to Lille: trains, ferries and automobiles are best.

The Eurostar (from St Pancras International) goes directly to Lille in under an hour and a half, making it by far the quickest mode of transport. Tickets for the Eurostar in September and October 2023 cannot be bought yet but in October 2022, an outbound ticket began at £121 for a standard seat.

Travelling by coach is a bit cheaper. From Victoria Coach Station, you can reach Lille for just under £100 in a comfortable and clean FlixBus. But it will take most of your day (approximately 8 hours).

Driving yourself and other friends or family may end up as the cheapest option per head, but not by much, given present fuel prices. A return ferry ticket between Dover and Calais for a normal sized car is approximately £220, with Lille lying an hour and 20 minutes on by car from Calais.

What do I have to see in Lille?
Lille’s Grand Place is where everyone in Lille meets. It dates to the Middle Ages and has a distinctly Flemish feel. Once there, you must enter the Old Stock Exchange. Composed of 24 identical houses surrounding a cloister, it is unquestionably the most beautiful building in the city. It now hosts a market stall for second-hand book sellers and acts as an arena for amateur chess players, who gather a fair crowd at any time of day.

What can I do in Lille?
Bicycle tours are a good way of cruising the whole city whilst seeing Lille’s key historical sites, such as De Gaulle’s birthplace; the Porte de Paris and its adjacent belfry; and Lille’s resplendent Citadel, built by Vauban. There are also less historic but equally impressive places to visit, such as Lille Zoo, which is home to a hundred different species of animals including lions, pelicans, rhinos and monkeys.

For something more tangible, and tasty, try the beer tour, run by L'Echappée Bière.   With the emphasis on drinking beer in different spots around the city, rather than learning about the finer details of brewing (although that does feature), the tour is a relaxed and fun way to while away an afternoon and sample the produce from some of Lille’s best independent breweries and craft beer houses. Whichever tour you opt for, prices should come in at under €30.

How do I get to the Pierre Mauroy stadium in Lille?
The Pierre Mauroy Stadium can be easily reached on Line 1 of the Lille Metro. Departing from stations in the city centre, you will need to get off at ‘Cite Scientifique’ or ‘4 Cantons’. From either station, it’s a short walk to the stadium. You can’t miss it. But if you’ve taken to cycling whilst in Lille, why not follow one of the designated cycle paths and power your way to the stadium instead. However, with only 1,000 berths at the stadium’s bike park, you may need to get creative in securing your bike to something else while at the game.

What about pre-match drinks?
You are spoilt for choice in Lille when it comes to pre-match drinking options, that’s as long as you like beer. As it’s beer, not wine, that the locals desire in this part of the world.

While the Grand Place is a great starting point to bump into fellow fans and locals heading to the game – it is the city’s communal meeting point after all – you might like to try the quainter charms of Le Vieux Lille – Old Lille – for a pre- or post-game drink. The hotspots in this quarter are all within 200m of the Notre Dame de la Treille cathedral. Try the two bars situated next to each other on Rue Des Trois Mollettes: La Capsule and Le Bar Braz. Think of yourself standing on cobbled streets, lined with pastel coloured Flemish buildings, schooner of craft beer in hand, analysing the merits of England’s starting XV with locals and travelling fans alike. That won’t be too far from your reality.  

What’s the food like in Lille?
Food in Lille is Flemish in influence, but modern in outlook. The city’s chefs have taken it on themselves to offer gourmet takes on local classics and the results are often spectacular. Menus across the city are made up of typically French and Belgian flavours, but there is one unlikely candidate for Lille’s favourite dish; Le Welsh. This elevated variation of the classic Welsh Rarebit often adds ingredients such as ham, mustard, or beer. It was imported to the Hauts-De-France region in 1544, by a Welsh Guard stationed at Mount Lambert, during Henry VIII’s siege of Boulogne. While the King and the Welsh Guard eventually left, Le Welsh became a Flemish culinary classic.

What are the best places to eat in Lille?
Babe in the Palais Rihour district is known for its meat and it’s not afraid to look beyond French borders to deliver excellence. It’s classic steak-frites, for example, deploys beef from Hereford and is delicious. For something more gourmet, have the bone marrow – which will be set on fire by your waiter upon serving. This gives it an intense heat to go with its rich flavourings. Beyond meat, there’s a smoky octopus sunk in ink, which is succulent and incredible. Do book in advance though, as they have a busy lunch-time service.

You can’t be in Lille without going to an estaminet. These traditional Flemish restaurants capture life from a hundred years ago (and more) and are typical of Lille, northern France, Belgium and the Netherlands.

The Au Vieux de la Vieille is a picturesque estaminet located on a bendy, cobbled side street in the Place aux Oignons, and is a delight (and also cheap). Try their Carbonnade Flamande, a beef and onion stew made with beer and thyme, but which is sweet as well. After eating, take down one of the board games from the shelves and while away the afternoon, just as soldiers on leave from the front line during the Great War might have done over 100 years before. Given your surroundings, mentally rewinding a century won’t be that hard to do.

For something more modern, try Mother in the Gare Saint Sauver quarter of Lille. Its entrees are decent, a mix of pub favourites from different cuisines – such as croquettes and spicy chicken wings – but the star of the Mother show is its burgers. The patties come cooked to a delightfully light pink complexion, in a not-too-sweet brioche bun, with plenty of fresh salad. Mother can also double as a nerve centre for staying on top of the Rugby World Cup with screens aplenty. The beer options are numerous, and again prices are very reasonable.

Where are the best places to stay in Lille?
Class and comfort can certainly be found at the Clarence Hotel in the centre of Old Lille. However, with only 19 rooms it is difficult to get a booking at the calmest times of the year. In a similar price bracket (£130-£190 per night) is another five-star establishment, the Hotel Barrière, which is located in the business district. It has more rooms, is smart and comfortable, and offers good food as well as a casino, theatre and wellness centre. Of similar calibre is the Hermitage Gantois. Founded in 1462, its combination of period architecture, an exquisite culinary experience and modern spa facilities make it one of the best hotels in the city.

For a middle-of-the-range price bracket, you can’t beat the Moxy. The hotel is set in a 19th century university medical faculty, making for a dramatic architectural arrival. Inside, everything is as you might expect for a modern hotel chain. It’s comfortable and fun, and good value at around €85 per night.

Are there any campsites in or around Lille?
There are several places to camp in the rural area surrounding the city. Just 15km towards the Belgian border, located in Houplines, is les Alouettes et l'Image. With cottages and mobile homes as more glamourous options, as well as space for campervans and tent pitches, this beautiful spot is located twenty minutes from downtown Lille. Equipped with fishing ponds, football pitches and tennis courts, you will not be short of onsite activity options at this highly recommended site.

Other camping options in the area are Grand Sart which is conveniently only 7km from the Stade Pierre Mauroy, or at the gates of Flanders you will find Camping Du Port Charlet, for the naturists amongst us!

What’s near to Lille?
Near to Lille are the battle fields of the First World War which make for a very interesting, not to mention moving, countryside excursion.

Famous memorial sites such as Thiepval and Arras, as well as the battle fields of the Somme, all lie within a one-and-half-hour drive of Lille city centre. Additionally, the Battle of Fromelles Museum is just outside the city, and will have an exhibition dedicated to the links between rugby and WW1 in Fromelles from June onwards. In Arras you can get a taste for what the local town was like 100 years ago during the First World War, thanks to extensive restoration work that repaired the badly shelled town to near its specifications of 1914. It’s a portal into the past, and just 25 minutes by train from Lille.

While in Arras….
Pull up a chair, a table and order a glass of beer at one of the many cafes on the cobbled town square. We recommend Chez Marcel which is prominently positioned amongst the throng of the action, where the maitre d' Luka will look after your every thirst, and provide you with a charcuterie board that never seems to end.

How do I find out more about Lille?
For more information on Lille, visit hellolille.eu/