Where to eat in Marseille and Provence
Rugby World Cup host city Marseille has one of France’s most exciting food scenes, but throw in the surrounding Provencal are, from Aix-en-Provence and the Luberon to the north, and Toulon to the east, and there’s endless options for some of the country’s finest regional cuisine. Daily Telegraph, Evening Standard and Food and Travel Magazine food writer Ben McCormack picks some of his favourites.
Think of Provence and a serene landscape of ancient farmhouses and lavender fields stretching to the horizon of a cloudless blue sky is probably what first comes to mind. This Provence still very much exists, not least in the wide-open spaces of the Luberon, but it’s only one part of the Provence story.
The spirit of Provence reveals itself as much in its towns and cities as its countryside. Aix-en-Provence is elegantly dignified while the rugby-mad port city of Toulon is not only home to the French navy but also superb sandy beaches. And in the region’s capital of Marseille, founded by the Greeks in 600BC, grit is turning to glamour as creatives priced out of Paris set up shop in France’s second-biggest city.
What unifies all these different ‘Provences’ is a distinctive cuisine based on garlic, tomato and olive oil, applied to the seafood fished from the Mediterranean coastline, the livestock farmed inland and the abundance of vegetables which grow everywhere.
Six Rugby World Cup matches are being held at the Stade Vélodrome in Marseille next autumn – England v Argentina; South Africa v Scotland; France v Namibia; South Africa v Tonga; and two quarter finals – here’s where to eat across Provence between matches.
Where to eat in Marseille
AM par Alexandre Mazzia
Well worth seeking out in the smart southern suburbs of Marseille, Alexandre Mazzia’s three-Michelin-starred restaurant is the hottest ticket in the city. The chef’s childhood was spent in the Democratic Republic of Congo and much of his cooking draws on the textures and flavours of African cuisine on a menu that places fish and vegetables centre stage. Roasting and smoking are favourite techniques in the likes of trout roe and wild salmon with smoked milk and roasted hazelnuts, while the daily changing menus evolve according to what arrives from Marseille’s fish and farmers’ markets.
9 Rue François Rocca, 13008 Marseille, +33 (0)4 91 24 83 63, alexandre-mazzia.com
AM par Alexandre Mazzia
Le Carré Bistromanie
In fairness so spectacular are the views of the Old Port that this Mediterranean brasserie with the five-star Sofitel Marseille Vieux Port could serve anything, fortunately what it does serve is exceptional. As you watch the sun drop and slowly colour the stone walls of the Old Port every shade of burnt orange, you can try some creative French bistronomy using the best local produce and fantastic regional wines.
36 Bd Charles Livon, 13007 Marseille, +33 (0)4 91 15 59 60
Le Carré Bistromanie
L’Arôme
The graffitied streets around Cours Julien just east of Marseille city centre are the local equivalent of Shoreditch or Bushwick, packed with cool scruffy bars and a handful of decent places to eat. L’Arôme is a standout, its spartan dining room decorated with schoolroom-style chairs, small tables and with a short three-course menu chalked up on a blackboard. Dishes such as veal cromesquis, magret de canard and tarte au citron might sound like typical bistro fare but everything here is treated to a contemporary touch. The handful of pavement tables give a real feel for this vibrant neighbourhood.
9 Rue des Trois Rois, 13006 Marseille, +33 (0)6 17 79 19 97
L’Arôme
Livingston
A hotshot arrival on cool Cours Julien, Livingston opened in Marseille in 2021 and has been the talk of the town ever since (not least among the city’s chefs). It’s a collaboration between the team behind popular Marseille bistro La Mercerie and chef Valentin Raffali, who previously worked at La Mercerie and the team’s other restaurant Chardon, in Arles (both terrific). Comfort-food classics are injected with bold flavours: croquettes filled with calf’s head and with a chipotle mayonnaise for dunking, say, or tomatoes roasted with XO sauce. The organic and biodynamic drinks list has a particular fondness for orange wine.
5 Rue Crudère, 13006 Marseille, +33 (0)4 96 10 00 00, livingstonmarseille.com
Chez Madie les Galinettes
Not only one of the few decent restaurants around the Vieux Port of Marseilles, but also one of the few serving bouillabaisse as it ought to be, bobbing with scorpionfish, conger eel, red gurnard, weever and the other marine life usually considered too ugly for the dining table. Other Provençal specialities include panisse (the signature chickpea fritter of Marseille), daube of beef, pieds paquets (lamb’s feet and tripe) and, with the locally roasted coffee, a homemade canelé flavoured with pastis instead of rum. The whole place hums with the family-run warmth of owner Delphine Roux (and occasional appearances from her retired butcher father André).
138 Quai du Port, 13002 Marseille, +33 (0)4 91 90 40 87, restaurantchezmadielesgalinettes.eatbu.com
Chez Madie les Galinettes
Le Petit Nice Passedat
The fish stew of bouillabaisse is the one Marseille dish found on menus throughout the world but here in its home city it is most often found in tourist traps around the Vieux Port. Le Petit Nice Passedat, a three-Michelin-starred restaurant in a Relais & Châteaux hotel, is a notable exception. Chef Gérald Passedat serves ‘Ma Bouille Abaisse’, deconstructed over three beautifully presented courses as seashell carpaccio, fish and lobster in a saffron broth, and a trio of fish cooked whole with fish soup. The food is stunning, but so is the view across the sea to the Château d’If, which makes the very steep prices a little harder to swallow.
17 Rue des Braves Anse de Maldormé, Cor Président John Fitzgerald Kennedy, 13007 Marseille, +33 (0)4 91 59 25 92, passedat.fr
Les Trois Forts
For the spectacular views of the ‘three forts’ of Marseille as you dine, this has to be on your list. Based at the top of the five-star Sofital Marseille Vieux Port, it’s the surf and turf of the Mediterranean coastline, the experienced and acclaimed Dominique Frérard is on the stoves, and there’s a strong Italian flavour to the menu. Stuffed courgette flowers; John Dory in the famed local bouillabaise sauce; turbot with coconut mousseline and pomegranate; or fillet of veal with seasonal truffles, and all paired with a well-chosen wine list.
36 Bd Charles Livon, 13007 Marseille, +33 4 91 15 59 56, sofitel-marseille-vieuxport.com
Les Trois Forts
L'Eau à la Bouche
What better place to eat authentic pizza than on the Promenade de la Corniche right by the Mediterranean? In the colourful but compact L'Eau à la Bouche, sit on the terrace with a glass of chilled rosé, with sea views while enjoying freshly baked pizza from their extensive menu, followed with a home-made ice cream or sorbet. pizzerialeaualabouche.fr
L'Eau à la Bouche
Where to eat in Toulon
Au Sourd
Opposite Toulon’s opera house, this historic restaurant dates back to 1862 and was founded by an artilleryman of Napoleon III who lost his hearing while fighting (‘sord’ is the French word for ‘deaf’) but thankfully did not lose his sense of taste. Current owners Pierre and Stéphanie maintain the tradition of Provençal seafood cooking, offering bouillabaisse and bourride stews as well as grilled wild fish: red mullet, scorpionfish, sea bass and sea bream. The cooking might follow a traditional path of simple things done very well but the surroundings are elegant and contemporary.
10 Rue Molière, 83000 Toulon, +33 (0)4 94 92 28 52, restaurantausourd.fr
Au Sourd
Tables et Comptoir
There’s nothing particularly flash about this small Toulon dining room; rather, the simplicity of the husband and wife-owned set-up – quality crockery and glassware on the cloth-free tables, colourfully upholstered chairs contrasting with white-plastered walls – speaks of a confidence in the Provençal cooking on the monthly changing menu: tomato terrine with brousse cheese and olive vinaigrette, fish of the day in a crustacea butter or a roast meat of the day with creamed potatoes, and a plate of cheese or a chocolate ganache to finish.
3 Boulevard Eugène Pelletan, 83000 Toulon, +33 (0)4 94 10 83 29
Tables et Comptoir
La Tulipe Noire
The Black Tuli is a famed haunt for every Toulon fan, where supports and players hang out. It’s known for its passionate atmosphere pre- and post-game, but this isn’t your usual pre-match outfit. Situated right on the harbour, as part of a stretch of eateries that are perfect for sundowners, what shouldn’t be ignored is the quality of the service and the food. While it’s decked out in Toulon memorabilia, and you’ll always find a Toulon fan to chat rugby with – they’ll be one serving you for starters – food is simple and delicious, it’s got mussels and the best seafood every way you want, including the Toulonnaise, together with a daily seasonal menu, plus all the usual steak cuts and chicken dishes. latulipenoire.eatbu.com
Quai de la Sinse 81, 83000 Toulon, +33 (0)4 94 08 49 97
La Tulipe Noire
Where to eat in the Luberon
Bistro le 5
A spectacular view across the Luberon countryside from a suntrap terrace is the USP of Bistro le 5, while big windows in the flag-floored dining room make the most of the location if the weather isn’t nice enough to sit outside. There’s nothing too fancy on the menu, just the sort of light, fresh cuisine you want to eat when the sun is shining, the wine is flowing and life feels good: small plates of truffled ham and tuna ventrèche to go with a glass of Champagne or pastis, starters proper of grilled octopus and beef tataki, then confit lamb, entrecôte steak or a seafood platter. Easy-going sibling La Terrazza di Bonnieux has similarly far-reaching views.
5 Place Albert Roure, 84560 Ménerbes, +33 (0)4 90 72 31 84, bistrotle5.com
Bistro le 5
La Petite Maison de Cucuron
This imposing (and not particularly petite) house, with its faded yellow walls, lavender-coloured shutters and old-fashioned decor, looks every inch the traditional Luberon residence. The menus of chef Eric Sapet stay true to the local produce of Provence. Duck comes roasted with figs in a red wine sauce, roasted and puréed ceps and accompanied by garlic cream, while an ice-cream cake is flavoured with local red and black fruits; truffle and game, such as hare à la royale, are a highlight in autumn. Choose from a three-course set menu or a six-course tasting menu, each matched to a suggested wine.
Place de L'Étang, 84160 Cucuron, +33 (0)4 90 68 21 99, lapetitemaisondecucuron.com
Restaurant Monsier TU
L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue is the Venice of Provence with its canals encircling the old town, hence its ‘island city’ moniker. Known for its antique stores – 300 is the often quoted figure – there’s plenty of good places to eat, including the canal-side Monsier Tu. A small, chalkboard menu evolves daily, with both regional favourites – local aioli served with chunk white fish – and southern French cuisine, so you can get your duck fix too. Start with a canalside cocktail, but go off-menu and just give the bartender your favourite spirit base and see what they conjure up.
14 Quai Rouget de l'Isle, 84800 L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, +33 4 88 61 28 47
Restaurant Monsier TU
Where to eat in Aix-en-Provence
Le Bistrot
Lipstick-red leather banquettes, red-checked tablecloths, raffia-backed bentwood chairs: Le Bistrot certainly looks the part but despite the touristy trappings, it’s just as popular with locals as anyone looking for an authentically old-school French dining experience. And no wonder: who can resist the classic charms of eggs mimosa, steak tartare, calf’s liver and milk-fed pork washed down with local wines? The setting in an old Aix townhouse in the most historic part of town, complete with centuries-old exposed stone walls, feels equally as timeless.
5 Rue Campra, 13100 Aix-en-Provence, +33 (0)4 42 23 34 61, restaurant-le-bistrot-aix-en-provence.fr
