Fiji is the rugby-loving, tropical utopia that every rugby fan has to see, first-hand, once in their life. As the land of Waisale Serevi, a man whose wonders on the sevens fields of Hong Kong transformed not just the abridged game, but also revealed how exciting rugby could be, Fiji is in pilgrimage territory. 

Even if you live in a British or Irish rugby stronghold, because rugby is so commonplace in the villages, fields and beaches of the Pacific island nation, by visiting Fiji you’re going to experience a country where the oval ball is truly king. 

“I know from growing up just how huge rugby is in Fiji,” explains Flying Fijians captain Waisea Nayacalevu. “Every young kid watched sevens, and then they’d go and play, trying to replicate what they’d just seen, hoping to one day be a sevens player or to represent Fiji.

“When you’re in Fiji, if you drive along the Coral Coast, you’ll see kids playing touch rugby on the side of the road, or in any space they can find. That’s where Fijian flair comes from, this free-flowing touch that transfers into their rugby when they play for club, into provincial, and then on into their journey through rugby

“Rugby is a religion in Fiji,” he adds, “everyone in Fiji love rugby, it’s part of our life.”

Just four hours’ flight from Australia, Fiji is not only an essential add-on for anyone touring with the British & Irish Lions next year, but a bucket-list travel destination in its own right. An archipelago of more than three hundred islands, with a population not even reaching a million, its landscape takes you from the most pristine, coral-fringed white sands with gin-clear waters filled with tropical wildlife to rich, verdant highlands. 

“I would say it’s a beautiful place,” says Waisea. “Tropical weather, beautiful white sandy beaches, and the people are nice as well. And you feel the energy when you arrive in Fiji. They welcome you with song at the airport and, I would say, it’s a peaceful place to go and explore and experience. 

“You have to see the nature in Fiji, get to the highlands,” he continues. “Pure, supreme places that haven’t been touched. It’s been there from the beginning of time. Then visit the small islands: beautiful, enjoy quiet time, just enjoy the peace, hear the birds and the sound of the sea waves.”

Graham Dewes, the national team’s Suva-born forwards coach and former Fiji player, believes it’s not just the place that makes it beautiful. “Fiji is known for beautiful people, beautiful landscape, beautiful islands,” he says. “They talk about the ‘bula smile’ – because wherever you come from, you’re made to feel at home.

“There’s more than beaches, there’s a lot to the inland, there’s hills, lakes and mountains; you just have to get out there.

“You have to get out to the outer islands; my favourite place would be Taveuni,” says Graham, continuing with his tips. “They call it the Garden Island and it’s one of the most beautiful islands in Fiji. It’s very green, and while all of Fiji is tropical, there’s a special flower that only grows there, called tagimoucia. We also had our camp there last year before the World Cup, so it holds a special place in my heart as well.”

And, of course, the weather helps. “The great thing about Fiji is that there’s only two seasons: the hot season and the cool season, so it’s always warm.”

It’s not just the Fijians who think the islands are special. The Australian coach of Fiji, Mick Byrne, who’s lived everywhere from New Zealand and Japan to England and America, has fallen in love with the place after three years, first with Fijian Drua and then the national side. “Oh, it’s a beautiful place,” he says. “But the people of Fiji is what makes it; they’re unbelievable; there’s no better place to live.

“We experienced it with Drua. We’d get a hammering, and I’d come home and I’m used to being in Australia and getting a hammering, so you’d go and hide in your cave for a week, but you come back to Fiji and the people are saying, ‘well done, coach, tell the boys we love them’. You know, we just got beaten by 50 points and these people just love the team and love the rugby.”

Mick is now so engrained in Fiji life, he’s been adopted by a village. “Yeah I’ve got a village, Sikhi Turu. My son met one of the village elders, and they sort of adopted him into the village, and I went in there. I’ve got a graduation to attend when I get back, they call me dad, I’ve just bought a cow and they look after me.”

As for his tips for visitors to Fiji, he says the famed Yasawa Islands off the west coast have to be visited, so too the Coral Coast on the southern edge of the main island of Viti Levu. “If you want to go and have a good drink out on the water somewhere, go to Seventh Heaven [a five-star floating restaurant/bar just off the coast near Nadi] or get out to Malamala Beach Club, a 45-minute ferry trip, and you can have a great day out there too. And if you want to spend some big bucks and enjoy yourself, there’s the Intercontinental [golf resort] an hour from Nadi.”

The villages though, for Mick, are what makes it. “Everyone has their own culture in all the villages,” he says. “They’ve all got their own unique way, but one thing that is consistent is ‘bula’. You know, everywhere you go, there’s a smiling face welcoming you, it’s such a spiritually uplifting place. It’s pretty hard to feel down and stay down, when you’re in Fiji.”

Aaron Mauger, the former All Black, now attack coach for Fiji, agrees with his head coach. “I think you’ve got to get in amongst the village lifestyle and have a bit more of an authentic sort of Fijian experience,” he says. “You see the way they host each other and connect in communal areas and look after each other – you definitely have to have a kava ceremony over there – they’re special people.”

Kava is famed the world over, involving a drink made from the crop’s root, which has ‘relaxing’ properties. In every village, the ceremony sees guests sitting in a circle around the bowl, and when handed the cup, they must clap, say ‘Bula’ [hello], and drink, clapping three times afterwards, finishing with the ‘Maca’, which literally means ‘finished’.

New Zealand-born Fijian Caleb Muntz has reconnected with his Fijian roots since joining Fijian Drua, and now knows how special his people are. “I think they care about everyone, and they especially care about visitors,” he says. “So, if you’re coming in, you’ll be treated like a king or a queen. At the end of the day, they don’t have a luxury life, but they’re just happy with waking up every day, grateful for another day, being surrounded by their family, eating some good food, they’re very grateful and just very happy, happy people.” 

For more information visit Tourism Fiji www.fiji.travel